Nowość - YSL Cinema

16.07.04, 10:30
repost z basenotes.net

Friday July 16, 2004
YSL Puts a New Scent in the Picture

By Pete Born

NEW YORK — YSL Beauté’s new women’s fragrance, called Cinéma, is designed to
shine with the glitter of light and the dazzle of celebrity. Its launch this
fall is also a critical opportunity for the venerable fashion and beauty
trailblazer to reassert itself in the crucial women’s fragrance market.


“It’s key for us,” said Chantal Roos, chairman and chief executive officer of
YSL Beauté, who took the helm four years ago with the mission of restoring
the luster of YSL’s beauty business after it was acquired by Gucci Group.

Cinéma is designed to fill the bill. It will be launched in the U.S. on Sept.
12 with a two-week exclusive break at Saks Fifth Avenue before rolling out
Oct. 1 to a total of 211 department and specialty store doors that carry
YSL’s makeup and treatment line, as well as its fragrances. The scent will
make its debut in the rest of the world Oct. 1.

This will be the first launch in the last four years that will be powered by
a TV commercial, which was produced by Jean-Baptiste Mondino, who also shot
the print advertising. Although YSL declined to break out budgets or
projections, industry sources estimate the fragrance could do 40 million
euros, or $49.5 million at current exchange, at wholesale globally for the
first four months from launch to the end of YSL’s fiscal year. More than 20
million euros, or $25 million, reportedly have been earmarked for advertising
and promotion. In the U.S., since distribution is so tight, the share of
global volume is estimated at about $6 million retail. About half that amount
is expected to be spent in advertising and promotion. The U.S. media plan
includes four or five national magazines.

In its position and formulation, the scent represents a bold evolutionary
step in the history of the YSL fragrances, which always celebrated women in
all of their seductiveness. “Today, what makes women dream is a star,” Roos
said, acknowledging that Saint Laurent had dressed Catherine Deneuve
throughout her film career. “Every woman wants to be desirable, every woman
wants to see how beguiling she is in the eyes of men.” She added, “A star is
glittering, it’s dazzling, it’s all about light.” Also, Roos noted that movie
statuettes are always made of gold.

Hence, a perfume bottle made of gold-colored metal, bearing the letters YSL
in raised script running along the surface. The glass eau de parfum bottle
also has raised script running along the back with the name in gold leaf on
the front. The packaging was inspired by a piece of jewelry made by Line
Vautrin, a Parisian sculptor who worked in the Fifties and was known as “the
poetess of metal.” YSL acquired the rights to her jewelry designs.


The fragrance, created by Jacques Cavallier of Firmenich, is somewhat of a
departure for YSL, which always has been known for sensuous scents. Roos
described one aspect of the formula as “a sunny scent in a bottle.” It is a
sensual, transparent floral with top notes of clementine, almond tree blossom
and cyclamen. The departure is in the “fresh and happy” elements. The heart
is floral with “sunny and spicy” notes. Amaryllis adds the sunshine, while
sambac jasmine provides “sensuous texture” with a little peony added.
Sensuality is accentuated by the drydown of amber, white musks and bourbon
vanilla.

A half-ounce perfume will be priced at $170 and a 1.6-oz.and 3-oz. eaux de
parfum will be priced at $60 and $82, respectively, in the U.S. There will
also be a 6.6-oz. shower gel for $40 and a 6.6-oz. body lotion for $45.

In addition to the 30-second TV commercial, which has been scheduled for
Europe, there will be a 45-second version for showing in theaters.

The use of TV now not only underscores the importance of this launch, but
also demonstrates that the business has grown healthy enough in the past four
years to support it. Roos said that in 2001, when she and then-creative
director Tom Ford launched Nu as YSL’s first stab at a fragrance comeback,
the resources were not available for a major electronic advertising
campaign. “Now we have improved,” she said, “and have done a lot of things
that were needed.”

Cinéma was a project that was coming to fruition last spring as Ford was
leaving Gucci. Roos credited him with providing the initial impetus for the
direction of the fragrance’s development.

Roos was candid about the need for Cinéma to do well. The house has made
headway with its color cosmetics line, rising to number three in France,
according to market tracking firm Secodip, for the first half of the year
through June 30. That put the brand ahead of Chanel, she noted. And the men’s
fragrance category has done better than expected. But Roos indicated that YSL
still doesn’t have a strong enough foothold in men’s to suit her, and she
wants to deal with that issue after tackling the women’s arena.

“YSL has always been strong in women’s fragrances,” Roos declared. “This is
where we have to show the world that we know how to use our know-how.”

She admitted, “We have not been able to demonstrate our know-how in women’s
fragrance. We lost a little bit of ground.”

In the U.S., management and marketing consultant Allan Mottus noted that
Nu “didn’t do well.” He maintains, however, that YSL has made such strides
under the previous U.S. president Alain Denoly in cleaning up distribution
and putting emphasis on color and skin care, that the stage is set for a
comeback. “If she gets a big one, she’ll be back in the game,” he said.

Dianne Barber, senior account manager of NPDBeauty, agreed with Mottus that
YSL’s makeup and treatment business is doing well in the U.S. In fact, she
asserted, “the company overall is doing well.”

Denoly’s successor, U.S. chief executive and managing director Maggie
Ciafardini, is now prepared to pick up the pace. While the possible use of TV
in the U.S. is still being discussed, she is moving ahead with plans to
promote the launch with magazine advertising complete with scented strips.
There also will be heavy sampling. She said her strategy is “to put the
fragrance on a pedestal.”

In Europe, the launch will be backed with scent seals and even billboards.
Roos is aiming to land in the top five of doors where YSL does business in
its foreign markets and in the top 10 in the 211 Beauté doors in the U.S. The
brand is distributed in only 15,000 doors around the world.

Roos senses that the wind is shifting in YSL’s favor. The new Boucheron
fragrance, Trouble, that the house launched earlier this year, is
selling “way above budget.” The new Oscar de la Renta fragrance looks
promising. And now comes a new YSL fragrance showing all the glitter of
gold.


Zdjęcie:
www.wwd.com/images/articles/071604_4.jpg
www.wwd.com/images/articles/071604_26.jpg

_________________
Versace - czarne kryształy, a YSL - złoto, świat oszalał:-)




    • forevermore79 Re: Nowość - YSL Cinema 16.07.04, 10:43
      Mialem wlasnie to wklejac- dzis zreszta w WWD bylo dosc malo ciekawych info, z
      wyjatkiem raportu o L'Oreal i gwiazdach w reklamie. :-)
      Troche sie zdziwilem widzac flakon Cinema- nie rozpoznalbym w nim stylu YSL, o
      ile mozna jeszcze o nim w ogole mowic.
      Jedno jest pewne- takiej jesieni nowosci dawno nie bylo. Pdf o B*Menie fajny-
      wszystko juz chyba wiemy o tym zapachu, widac, ze Mugler ma dobry marketing :-
      ).
      A zlot forumowiczow- swietny pomysl, choc ja z Gd- no zobaczymy, z terminami
      roznie, zawsze mozna nadrobic to przy okazji.
      • sorbet Re: Nowość - YSL Cinema 16.07.04, 12:27
        Właśnie nie byłem pewien czy art. pochodzi z WWD, więc wklejałem:-) Ale fakt.
        nie zwróciłem już uwagi na to, że zdjęcia są WWD. Sorry że "wyprzedziłem" Cię:)

        Butelka na zdjęciu wygląda trochę nawet kiczowato no nie. Może w realu jest
        lepiej. Ale Champagne też wygląda jakoś moim zdaniem bardzo "lata 80te" :-)

        Jeśli chodzi o zlot to byłoby fajnie gdybyś mógł przyjechać :-) może wtedy
        Luloo tez już wróci z urlopu i może wpaść:-)) My z Wawy chyba nie ruszamy, hehe.

        • sorbet YSL and the silver screen 16.07.04, 12:35
          z cosmeticnews.com

          YSL and the silver screen

          The Yves Saint Laurent brand has raised the curtain on its new women’s
          fragrance, Cinéma, set to launch in October. “Our goal is to put it in the top-
          10 in Europe by the end of 2005,” YSL Beauté president Chantal Roos announces.
          The brand devoted a budget worthy of a blockbuster to the new fragrance,
          putting Jean-Baptiste Mondino behind the camera for the advertising spot. “It
          is our first ad film since I have been back to YSL,” Roos says. “Before, we did
          not have the resources.”

          The star of the campaign is Brazilian model Michelle Alves, who plays a
          seductive, insolent femme fatale courted by no fewer than five men in tuxedos
          who are captivated by the sensual floral composed by Jacques Cavallier
          (Firmenich).

          The top note blends Corsican clementine, almond blossom and cyclamen, leading
          into a heart of amaryllis in a bouquet of Sambac jasmine and peony. The base
          note is a woody echo of ambergris, white musks and Bourbon vanilla. The
          Extract, however, also has benzoin for a sensual touch.

          Inspired by a case created by Line Vautrin, a Parisian sculptress who was
          active in the 1950s, the YSL team created a clear bottle for the EdP with a
          corrugated back showing the brand name spelled out in gold letters, recalling
          the look of scrolling film credits. The product name is inscribed on the front,
          also in gold. The extract comes in a specially sculpted metal bottle whose
          weight (several hundred grams) and shape evoke a gold trophy.

          The worldwide launch will begin on October 1 on the brand’s domestic markets
          and in travel retail. Four points-of-sale (pos) will offer a preview of Cinéma
          starting in mid-September: Holt Renfrew in Toronto, Canada; El Corte Inglés in
          Madrid and Barcelona, Spain; and Saks in New York, US. For the first four
          months of the launch in the US, Cinéma will be available only in the 201 US pos
          that carry the YSL brand’s cosmetics range.

          The product line comprises a 15ml extract (€155), three EdP sprays (35ml, 50ml
          and 90ml for €48, €64 and €89 respectively), and two derivatives based on
          marigold: a 200ml body milk (€38) and a 200ml shower gel (€33).


          _____________________________________

          Zauważyliście, że dla Cinema gra modelka, nie aktorka:-)? Oj, niedobrze to
          brzmi!
    • elve Re: Nowość - YSL Cinema 16.07.04, 13:48
      Łłłłokropny flakonik. Sądząc z opisu zapach tez mi się nie spodoba. A taka
      fajna nazwa...
      A kiedy ten Warszawski zlot? Ja będę jakoś niedługo się szlajać po Polsce, może
      bym wstąpiła do Was na chwilę? Poprosze o namiary jak już będą jakieś
      konkrety :)
      • madllen Re: troszkę nie na temat:) 16.07.04, 15:13
        Jeju:) Elve, zechciałabyś do nas zajrzeć- ale fajnie:)))

        Serdeczności:)
        • madllen I jeszcze malutki PS-ik:) 16.07.04, 15:16
          Koniecznie porwij Balbinę;))
    • balbina_alexandra Re: Nowość - YSL Cinema 16.07.04, 17:39
      Ja mam dużą słabośc do YSL, ale raczej do pielęgnacji no i sporo kosmetyków
      kolorowych :))) z zapachami to już różnie bywa... choć Baby Doll kupiłam gdy
      tylko sie pojawiło i dość długo używałam! Tej wiosny nakręcona zręcznym
      marketingiem "tylko do końca roku, edycja limitowana!" zakupiłam In Love
      Again :))) Jestem ciekawa tego nowego zapachu YSL chocby z sentymentu bo
      uwielbiam kremy i maseczki tej firmy, ale tak czytając opis zaryzykowałabym
      tezę, iż zapach mi się nie spodoba. Flakon - okropny po prostu, i jakoś wcale
      mi się z YSL nie kojarzy...

      Madllen - buziaki, dziękuje za pamięć! W stolicy byłam ostatnio dwa razy, raz w
      interesach a raz na koncercie Lenny'ego :))) na razie wszelkie wojaże w moim
      przypadku wykluczone - dziś o godzinie 13 z minutami wyszłam ze szpitala, w
      srodę rano miałam operację i znów jestem półkaleką kuśtykającą o kulach... na
      razie to nawet w zasadzie nie kustykam, ino leżę (boli bardzo a ja nadwrażliwa
      na ból, domagam się kolejnych środków przeciwbólowych). Dziś też dowiedziałam
      się iż tuż po wypadku gdyńscy lekarze zostawili mi "coś" w nodze... i na razie
      nie wiadomo co z tym fantem zrobić :)))))

      Żałuję iż najprawdopodobniej nie uda mi się spotkać z forumowiczami - fajnie że
      niektórych udało mi się poznać trochę "mailowo" :)))) za to udało mi się poznać
      Elve, i z tego powodu pękam z dumy!

      A póki co, ściskam wszystkich serdecznie i lecę do łóżka, nie nadwyrężając
      biednej kończyny :)))
      • madllen Balbinko! 16.07.04, 20:05
        Trzymam kciuki, coby wszystko miało jak najlepsze zakończenie! I to jak
        najprędzej, bo lato już nieśmiało zagląda do Polski(?), chyba:)

        Uściski i serdeczne pozdrowienia:)
      • elve o rany! 16.07.04, 20:56
        Balbinko, wracaj szybko do zdrowia! mam nadzieję, że teraz sami dobrzy lekarze
        się Tobą zajmują!
        Pozdrowienia :)
        • balbina_alexandra Kochani :) 17.07.04, 14:01
          Dziękuję wam za ciepłe słówka, od razu mi lepiej na duszy. Muszę się przestac
          mazać i już! Po prostu jestem zła i tak sobie marudzę... ale logiczne jest że
          ma prawo jeszcze mnie boleć, jestem świezo po operacji, tylko że miałam jakąś
          super wizję jak to będę się sprawnie poruszać wszędzie gdzie mi się zachce a
          tak się na razie nie da...
          Ściskam was wszystkich serdecznie i idę poszukac jakiegoś zapachu na dziś,
          który mnie nie zemdli, ani nie odrzuci. Mój typ to Grain de Folie (mam tylko
          maleńką mianiaturkę :( ).
      • sorbet Wracaj szybko do zdrowia, Balbinko:-) 16.07.04, 23:51
        Nie miałem pojęcia, póki nie zobaczyłem post Elve.
        Wszystko będzie dobrze, trzymamy kciuki!

        Najserdeczniejsze pozdrowienie:-)
      • coralin Re: Balbinko! 17.07.04, 00:35
        Trzymaj się, napiszę coś niebawem, ale też mam bardzo ciężki czas. Zdrowia
        życzę:)Ściskam i pozdrawiam:)
        • renia30 Balbinko! - wracaj do zdrowia!! szybciutko!! 17.07.04, 07:18
          pozdrawiam serdecznie R
    • forevermore79 Rzut na reklame- calkiem, calkiem 27.08.04, 00:25
      Niezla stylistyka retro, ma klase- no i suknia typowa dla wczesnych YSL:

      www.moodiereport.com/images/YSL%20Cinema%202.jpg
      Artykul z moodiereport.com:

      "FRANCE. “A key moment in the life of the company”. That’s how YSL Beauté
      Director Travel Retail Worldwide Caroline Olive described the importance of
      Yves Saint Laurent’s latest feminine fragrance, Cinéma, which will be launched
      in selected markets on 1 October.

      “This fragrance is a turning point for the brand, and we will use it to ‘root’
      us for the long term,” she continued.

      Described as a tribute to beauty, pleasure and seduction, Cinéma represents a
      return to glamour, sophistication and elegance — key pillars of the Yves Saint
      Laurent brand.

      The company is also hoping it will demonstrate a return to form, following what
      it acknowledges as a disappointing performance from its predecessor, Nu.

      YSL has certainly set its sights high. According to Olive, within travel retail
      the company is targeting a top 10 slot in all major European markets. YSL does
      not break out figures, but put its expectations in perspective by confirming it
      hopes Cinéma will reach 50% of Opium sales in its first year, and equal Opium
      sales in year two.

      Again, no advertising and promotional budget was disclosed, but with extensive
      print, TV, cinema and outdoor in the mix, €20million would not be
      unreasonable. “There will be a very big advertising investment,” confirmed
      Olive.

      A sensual floral, the Cinéma juice — created by Jacques Cavallier of Firmenich —
      opens on notes of Corsican clementine, almond tree blossom and cyclamen. The
      heart features amaryllis, Sambac jasmine and peony; the base amber, white musks
      and Bourbon vanilla.

      The Cinéma flacon, designed to evoke a trophy, was inspired by the work of
      1950s Parisian sculptor Line Vautrin.

      The parfum reference is a heavy, gold-coloured metal, topped with a satin-
      finished square. The letters ‘Yves Saint Laurent’, in relief, span the length
      of the bottle.

      The edp version also features the brand name in raised script, but the bottle
      is made of heavy sculpted glass, and embossed on the front with Cinéma. The
      outer packaging is a complementary satin gold.

      The Cinéma line-up comprises a 15ml parfum, 50ml and 90ml edp sprays, a 200ml
      Luscious Shower Gel and a 200ml Velvety Body Lotion. The recommended travel
      retail price points are €124, €38, €51, €30 and €26, respectively.

      The fragrance will make its debut in the US in mid-September, via a two-week
      exclusive listing at Saks Fifth Avenue. The global launch will begin on 1
      October, when Cinéma rolls out to Europe, North America and the Middle East.

      The travel retail introduction will take place in tandem with the corresponding
      domestic markets.

      Central and South America will get the fragrance in March 2005, followed by
      Australia and New Zealand one month later. Details of the Asian roll-out have
      yet to be confirmed.

      The launch will be supported by extensive print advertising and a TV campaign —
      YSL’s first in support of a fragrance launch for about five years. Both were
      shot by Jean-Baptiste Mondino, and centre around Brazilian model Michelle Alves
      in drop-dead Hollywood glamour mode, playing host to five men in black tie.

      Within travel retail, the first HPPs are slated for mid-October to November. In
      addition, YSL has created a special Christmas event for key airport doors,
      which will be implemented in December. "

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