News- Wiecej o Lauder/Ford Youth Dew Ambre Nude

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(ang.), z WWD- debiut linii makijazu (spore ceny) i nowej wersji Youth Dew w
interpretacji Toma Forda:

"NEW YORK — Tom Ford has summoned the glamour and daring spirit of Estée
Lauder, the woman who put American fragrance and herself on the map when she
launched Youth Dew in 1953.
And it's the naked truth that "it's the time for the reinstitution of glamour
and exclusivity," Ford told WWD during an exclusive phone interview from his
London home on Thursday. "I want to go back to real luxury, the highest
quality products. Luxury has gone mass," Ford said, admitting that he played
a major part in that movement at Gucci. "It's time to change that."

"Tom was the ultimate bandleader, and we were his orchestra."
John Demsey, the Estée Lauder Cos.
And he's prepared to lead the charge with Amber Nude, his first cosmetics and
fragrance collection for the Estée Lauder brand, coming in early November.
Branded under the Tom Ford Estée Lauder name, the 14-stockkeeping-unit
collection is relatively pricy: lipsticks retail for $35; an impressively
sized bronzer is $60. The eye-catcher of the collection is a $550 gold
minaudière, containing a lip polish and a face powder.

The 2.5-oz. Youth Dew Amber Nude eau de parfum spray retails for $65,
compared with $28 for a 2.25-oz. bottle of the 52-year-old Youth Dew
original, which is still being sold. There's a solid perfume in a gold-toned
compact for $150 and an atomizer parfum purse spray with refill for $225. One
practical touch is a $35 lip transformer called Lip Polish, which allows a
consumer to adjust the tones of the other lipsticks by layering. Face and eye
glosses, designed to be layered over other products and even applied by hand,
are $40 each. Nail enamel retails for $25 and face powder is priced at $50.
And there's 24-karat gold in the lip polish and the face gloss: The usual
cost-of-goods worries apparently didn't apply. All of the products in this
collection are limited editions, with the exception of the Amber Nude eau de
parfum.

The Amber Nude lineup will enter a sliver of Lauder's traditional 2,000-door
North American distribution in November. Like its predecessor, the new
fragrance and its makeup collection will be launched in an old-fashioned way,
when businesses were built one specialty store at a time. In early November,
the fragrance and makeup will enter 100 doors, including Saks Fifth Avenue,
Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and Holt Renfrew in Canada. In early
December, another 125 doors of Bloomingdale's and Nordstrom will be added to
the fragrance distribution. In January, the fragrance distribution will add
775 doors. Overseas, select doors in key markets will be added. It will be
sold in freestanding Lauder doors in Las Vegas and Manhasset, N.Y., and on
the company's Web site. The North American fragrance distribution will end up
at 1,000 doors.

"[Amber Nude] is being launched only in specialty stores," Ford said. "The
price points are high because the quality is great; we didn't want to play
the price game. Price shouldn't be the main component. It's time for
authenticity." He'll continue that commitment with a second color collection
for the Estée Lauder brand this spring and a freestanding fragrance and color
collection under his own name in fall 2006.

John Demsey, global president of the Estée Lauder and MAC Cosmetics brands,
sees the collection as the first step in a major modernization of the Estée
Lauder brand. Demsey pointed out that Lauder herself was "a woman way ahead
of her time," not afraid to break barriers and show what women could achieve
at a time when that was generally not done. Referring to this effort, Demsey
said that he wants this collection to set the stage for the eponymous Tom
Ford collection, due in fall 2006 and "a rethinking of the Estée Lauder
brand."

But it's being done with a nod to the spirit of Estée Lauder. In fact,
Leonard Lauder, Estée's son and chairman of the company that bears her name,
has pointed out that the consumer reaction to the original was a major
building block for the company. In fact, in 1960, it accounted for 80 percent
of the company's sales, he said.

The updated Ford effort, combined with Gwyneth Paltrow cutting a swath
through the media now with her new Pleasures advertising campaign, are
creating a major moment for the Lauder brand. "It's a statement of who we
were and who we are and where we are going," said Demsey, adding that "the
positives [of these moves] so outweighs the risks."

While Demsey made it clear that he sees the Ford collection as primarily
having an impact in terms of the brand's global image, industry observers
also think that this collection will create a lot of excitement at the
counter — particularly since such small quantities will be available.
Industry sources estimate that Lauder produced only $2.5 million worth of
cosmetics and a similarly limited number of eau de parfum units for the
initial rollout. While the company does not break out projections, industry
sources also estimate that the total collection will generate about $5
million at retail for November and December in the U.S., which is high
productivity considering the handful of doors in which it will be
distributed.

After the makeup has been sold out, the 2.5-oz. eau de parfum spray will
continue to be marketed globally. Sources estimate that it will do $30
million at retail in the first eight months of 2006, when it will be rolled
out to selected accounts around the world. Likewise, sources estimated that
Lauder would spend $8 million on advertising and promotion in North America
and more than $12 million globally to promote the Amber Nude products. The
magazine advertising, which will appear in Vogue and W (which, like WWD, are
both units of Advance Publications Inc.), begins in December.

And with Tom Ford being, well, Tom Ford, nudity did enter into the equation —
both with the first collection's name and its advertising visual, which
features Carolyn Murphy wearing the cosmetics collection and little else.

"People may look at this ad and say, ‘Oh, Tom Ford — all he does is take
people's clothes off,'" Ford said with a laugh. "[Carolyn] doesn't have a lot
clothes on [in the ad, in fact] she's not wearing anything."

Ford pointed out that Lauder also ditched the clothes for the original
Fifties Youth Dew ad, when nudity was even more shocking. "The model in the
original ad [released in 1953] was also nude," Ford said. And there's a
reason for that: "Youth Dew has always been one of Estée Lauder's sexiest
fragrances," he said.

And Demsey had no problems with the admittedly sexy advertising. "Tom was the
ultimate bandleader, and we were his orchestra," he said, adding that Ford
also had more than a little in common with the brand's namesake, Estée
Lauder. "She was an American woman with an international sensibility and he
is an American man with an international sensibility," said Demsey, who
repeatedly referred to Ford's "laser focus."

Ford's powerhouse orchestra members also included Aerin Lauder, senior vice
president of global creative directions for the Estée Lauder brand; Evelyn
Lauder, senior corporate vice president of the Estée Lauder Cos., and Andrea
Robinson, chief marketing officer for the Lauder brand. For the fragrance,
Karyn Khoury, senior vice president of corporate fragrance worldwide, helped
Ford find the right mix, while Annie Carullo, senior vice president of global
product innovation, played a part in finalizing the cosmetics. "This is the
first time we've let somebody come in here and touch all the elements [of the
brand]," Demsey said, adding, "We've never had a 360-degree approach."

And Ford, who signed this deal with L

Opis zapachu +fotka

[forevermore79]

"(...)And Ford, who signed this deal with Lauder in April to worldwide fanfare,
is impressed that the first group of products came to fruition so
quickly: "Everyone just killed themselves to do it on time," said Ford.

There was never a doubt in his mind, however, about the first product he
planned. "It had to be Youth Dew," he said. "My grandmother really did wear
Youth Dew. My first experience with the Estée Lauder Cos. was with that
fragrance, and it's a fragrance that I've personally loved. [However,] in its
original incarnation, it might be a bit heavy for today's tastes. But at its
heart is a very wearable, sexy fragrance."

Ford and his team turned to International Flavors & Fragrances, which had
produced the original Youth Dew — which many see as the first modern Oriental
fragrance — to help craft the new amber-infused version.

"The original Youth Dew was very concentrated because it was conceived as a
bath oil," said Ford, referring to the 30 percent oil concentration. "[For
Amber Nude] we cut the concentration of the fragrance in half, then went back
in and added magnolia and ginger to give the top notes more sparkle. We
retained the vetiver and sandalwood [in the drydown]. We wanted people to smell
it and say, ‘Wow, Youth Dew — that smells amazing,' not like a different
fragrance."

Amber Nude's top notes also include fresh tea, grapefruit and a bare skin
accord; while the heart adds textured black rose to the original creation's red
carnations, jasmine and ylang-ylang. The drydown retains Youth Dew's patchouli
notes, and adds amber, vetiver and a dark chocolate note that replaces the
original vanilla in the finish.

Ford noted that some ingredients in the original mix have themselves changed
over the years. "For instance, the patchouli — which is a major part of this
fragrance — that is used today is much lighter than what was used in the
Fifties. But it was important to keep it in the fragrance because it's part of
the [Lauder] heritage."

The color also got a makeover: "The original was almost maple syrup in color,"
Ford said. "This one is an amber shade."

Ford also looked to the brand's heritage for the compacts and fragrance bottle
packaging. "I took the original bottle and streamlined it," he said, adding
that the original bottle was inspired by a woman's silhouette. "Women's
silhouettes in the Fifties were different from today's, so it made sense to
streamline [the bottle]. The color of the bow on the bottle and the way it is
tied also changed, and we added an amber topaz cabochon on the cap.

"We went back into the [Estée Lauder] archives and looked at all of the great
Sixties and Seventies compacts and solid perfumes," Ford continued. "They had
metal compacts, not metallized plastic. They were very glamorous, as was the
life that Estée Lauder herself aspired to and led. I wanted to put that level
of quality into this collection."

Speaking of the brand's iconic founder — does Ford worry about what she would
have thought of his collection? In a word, no. "When I was at YSL, I didn't
worry about what Yves Saint Laurent was thinking, either. You can't think that
way. Other brands that have existed for a long time think [when faced with
change], ‘Oh, that isn't the brand.' As I did while at YSL [and Gucci] I tried
to think of what the brand stands for, then do a contemporary version of that."

But it's likely she would have approved. "If Estée Lauder were here today, God
knows what she would be doing," said Ford. "She was the leader of the pack,
very aggressive. People may think that she was conservative, but she was a real
innovator," he said.

Leonard Lauder thinks his mother would have approved of Ford's effort. "Estée
Lauder had always partnered with the best talents of every generation, and Tom
Ford is the top imagemaker of our time," he said Thursday. "The collection
blends the best of Estée Lauder's heritage with Tom's modern approach to style
and beauty. Mrs. Estée Lauder would have loved this association."

Ford describes the collection as a marriage of luxury, glamour and clean
lines. "It's very Palm Beach, in a sense," he said, revealing that "Palm Beach"
is the code name for the spring rendition of the Tom Ford Estée Lauder
Collection. "It's the idea that makeup is glamorous, which we've forgotten to a
certain extent with all of the minimalism in makeup. I love makeup. I've always
tried to create a statement with the makeup in my [runway] shows.

"They'll have a spring feeling," he teased, regarding the spring 2006
collection, also inspired by vintage Estée Lauder products. "And the packaging
is going to be geared for spring. They're the kinds of things that will look
good with a short skirt. But there won't be a new fragrance with spring."

By contrast, Ford sees the fall collection as "much more about evening," a
point he proved by designing the limited-edition gold minaudière for the
collection. Fewer than 700 of the sleek gold-toned clutches will be produced.

Ford will begin shooting the spring advertising campaign on the 20th of this
month. As with the fall collection, the visuals will feature Murphy. "I did
that on purpose," he said. "With both the fall and spring ads, I wanted to take
Carolyn [who has been the brand's face for the past four years] and show a
different side of her. It's a much sexier image [than what has been used of
Murphy in the past]."

While he wouldn't reveal details of the spring campaign, Ford did say he's
rather fond of the fall one. "Carolyn looks so expensive [in the ad]," said
Ford, adding that Murphy is wearing the complete color collection in the
visual, which was shot by Craig McDean. "She looks like a bit of toffee — you
just want to take a bite of her."

Ford is also speeding full steam ahead with his eponymous fragrance and color
cosmetics collection, which will launch in fall 2006. "This has been wonderful.
One of the reasons I wanted to work with the [Estée] Lauder Cos. is because
there is a strong connection to its family. Not that other companies don't have
professionalism, but there are still Lauders walking the hall here, and that
makes a difference. And John Demsey is great — he's a major reason we're doing
this with Lauder."

Ford said his favorite product is the atomizer. "It's probably going to be the
last to be delivered because [atomizers] are tough to do. I also like the solid
perfume — not too many people do them." "
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O kampanii reklamowej, z WWD:

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"NEW YORK — For the upcoming advertising campaign backing his update of the
Estée Lauder Cos.' Youth Dew, Tom Ford has gotten naked again — sort of.
The print ad, photographed by Craig McDean and closely art directed by Ford,
shows Lauder's regular model, Carolyn Murphy, slumbering nearly nude on a
couch, with a sheet covering strategic body parts.

The ad is designed to promote Amber Nude, a new interpretive fragrance that
updates Estée Lauder's groundbreaking scent Youth Dew, which had caused a
sensation in 1953. It wasn't just the fact that Lauder had offered a bath oil
that was as sensual and powerful as a perfume so that women could buy it
themselves, then a new idea. There also was the eye-opening advertising image.
Shot through a frosted glass shower door, it showed a naked woman toweling
herself off after taking a bath.
Ford, interviewed by telephone from London Thursday, laughed as he anticipated
the reaction to his latest work. "They'll say, ‘Oh God, it's Tom Ford taking
the clothes off another person and stretching her out.'" He pointed out,
however, that Estée Lauder's 1953 bombshell was more controversial in its time,
although he did admit, "I like naked women, and I like naked men as well."

The new ad, pictured here, provides the first look at the hotly anticipated
image, which will appear in the December editions of a handful of magazines.
While Lauder executives would not discuss budgets, industry sources estimate
that the global advertising spend, including scented strips, could hit $12
million, with $8 million in the U.S.
The ad campaign will support the fragrance launch; that launch will be
accompanied by a 13-item line of luxury-priced cosmetics encased in heavy gold
metal packaging. Branded under the Tom Ford Estée Lauder name, products will
make their debut in November in only 100 doors, mostly specialty stores. The
makeup items will be produced in small numbers of a limited edition, while the
Amber Nude fragrance will continue on as a flanker to Youth Dew. In December,
125 doors will be added to the fragrance distribution, then another 775 doors
will be added in the early part of 2006. Most of these will be in North
America, although key doors will be added overseas. It is estimated that North
American distribution will ultimately hit 1,000 doors.

Discussing his vision for the campaign, Ford said the shoot originally had been
done three ways. Murphy had been posed on fake fur, mindful of the controversy
surrounding animal testing. Another session had her completely naked. "She was
hiding her breasts," Ford explained. "It was a fairly modest nude shot."
The third version with the sheet was the ultimate winner because with the folds
of fabric silhouetting the curves of her body, "she looks more sensual. It's
really beautiful," Ford said.

His concept was to portray the steamier, more intimate side of Lauder. "I
wanted to show a different side of the Lauder woman," Ford said, " a more
sensuous side, a more evening side."
The golden color palette of the photo was not only a reference to the amber in
the name, but also the ingredients. Ford noted that Youth Dew incorporates the
gourmand strain of perfumery with its vanilla notes. Amber Nude instead
contains chocolate, and Ford said his aim was to make Murphy look "like a
beautiful piece of candy. I wanted to make her look so delicious that you'd
want to bite into her."

John Demsey, global president of the Estée Lauder brand and MAC Cosmetics,
called the campaign "quintessential Tom Ford, and quintessential Estée Lauder."
Referring to the handling of Murphy, Demsey said, "[Ford] felt it was important
to convey a different vocabulary with somebody already within the brand. He
thought it was important because he is making a heritage play." His intent was
to show how "fresh and modern" the 52-year-old brand could be.
Demsey agreed with the choice of images, saying that rather than showing
Murphy "literally naked for shock value, Tom decided that this image is more
sensual and evocative."
Demsey maintains this is the first time that a prestige cosmetics and fragrance
launch will have such a global reach. The advertising effort will move in two
stages, beginning with a debut in the December editions of Vogue, Vanity Fair,
W and Interview. The broader second stage will start in the early spring with
an enlarged roster of magazines. The advertising in Vogue, displayed on a
gatefold or spread, will appear simultaneously in all the key overseas launch
markets in an unusually international effort."
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