Meski zapach marki- wprowadzony po gigantycznym sukcesie damskiego
"By Julie Naughton
The men's fragrance market is about to get down — with a Juicy
Couture men's fragrance called Dirty English.
"We've wanted to do a men's fragrance for a long time," said Gela
Nash-Taylor, who along with Pamela Skaist-Levy founded the Juicy
Couture brand. "Since we began our men's line [in 2004], we've been
upping the ante in contemporary men's wear, and men are more into
beauty and grooming products than they've ever been. They are buying
their own pomade and fragrance, and their own clothes, rather than
waiting for women to buy all of those things for them. This is the
perfect time to launch a men's scent."
Dirty English, said Nash-Taylor, is a combination between her self-
proclaimed Anglomania (she is married to Duran Duran bass player
John Taylor) and Skaist-Levy's "CZ Guest style" with a dash of
attitude inspired by a 1976 review of a Sex Pistols concert. The
scent also takes a few style cues from the 5,000-square-foot Juicy
Couture flagship the pair opened on Rodeo Drive in October, she
said. "We have a loft that is designed to make men want to come and
hang out," Nash-Taylor said of the upstairs space, intended to
resemble a billiard room. Details include parquet herringbone
floors, a leather couch, a gold knight in armor propped next to a
fireplace and a surfboard reading, "Dude, Where's My Couture?" She's
hoping the similarly he-man details on the fragrance — including
chain built into the cap and a square, heavy glass bottle — also
will draw men in. And, promised Nash-Taylor with a laugh, "Any self-
respecting bad boy will want to wear it."
The scent, by Givaudan's Claude Dir, has top notes of peppered
mandarin, blue cypress, Calabrian bergamot, caraway and cardamom
pods; a heart of marjoram, black leather and the proprietary Santal
Fatal accord, which consists of sandalwood, atlas cedarwood and
vetiver roots and a dry-down of agarwood, ebony wood, black moss
absolute and amber musk.
"The Juicy Couture women's fragrance has been an incredible success
globally, and we are expecting the same type of success from Dirty
English," said Art Spiro, president of Liz Claiborne Cosmetics,
which holds the Juicy Couture fragrance license. "It's got style,
with an irreverent wink."
Dirty English will have a one-month exclusive at Bloomingdale's
beginning mid-March, and will roll out to its remaining
distribution — for a total of about 1,400 U.S. department and
specialty store doors — in mid-April, said Debbie Nuzzo, vice
president of sales for Liz Claiborne.
The collection includes eaux de toilette in two sizes, 1.7 oz. for
$52 and 3.4 oz. for $70; Skin & Tonic aftershave tonic, $50 for 3.4
oz.; English Cream aftershave soother, $42 for 4.2 oz.; De-Funk
Deodorant, $20 for 2.6 oz.; Up With a Twist shower gel, $30 for 6.7
oz. and Head Mate styling pomade, $18 for 1.7 oz., said Paul
McLaughlin, creative director for Liz Claiborne.
Advertising — a mix of ransom-note typography and scratch-and-sniff
patches — will break in March fashion, beauty and lifestyle
magazines, noted Marcy Fisher, vice president of cosmetics marketing
at Liz Claiborne.
While none of the executives would comment on sales projections or
advertising spending, industry sources estimated that Dirty English
would do about $23 million at retail in its first year on counter
and that about $15 million would be spent on advertising and
In addition to the fragrance, said Nash-Taylor, she and Skaist-Levy
will launch a men's eyewear range as the scent launches. "Next after
that will be an infants' line, great men's loungewear like boxers
and robes, sleepwear in the fall for women and a women's flanker
fragrance that we haven't named yet," said Nash-Taylor. In the fall,
she mentioned that she and Skaist-Levy were also working on P&G, a
project said to include two juices — one named for Pam and the other
for Gela — that consumers can mix themselves, essentially creating
Color cosmetics also are on the duo's wish list. "Pam and I are
serious makeup junkies," said Nash-Taylor, adding that a color line
might be released by a different partner than Claiborne. Nash-Taylor
and Skaist-Levy tested the color cosmetics waters in the fall with
Juicy Crittoure, a dog grooming line, which includes nail polish.
Music also is a business focus for the duo. "We want to sell CDs in
our stores and downloads online," said Nash-Taylor. They'll lead
that charge with a promotional effort for Dirty English, which will
include a compilation CD that DJ Brett Brooks put together for
Skaist-Levy and Nash-Taylor.
A 9,000-square-foot New York flagship on Fifth Avenue is slated for
August, and the duo hopes to have 60 U.S.-based Juicy Couture stores
up and running by yearend. An Asian expansion also is expected by
yearend, bringing the number of stores globally to 83. And the duo
is considering a runway show in New York this fall.
But one thing remains the same, said Nash-Taylor: "We still have an
irreverent, unorthodox approach to our products, and that won't